Happy as a pig in mud, and shade, and space, and hay, and a large property on the southern side of Mudgee.

While most of James Caspar's pigs will end up as someone's breakfast or dinner, life seems pretty comfortable beforehand.

The former London veterinarian turned farmer is one of a very small amount of free range pork producers in Australia.

"I've always had a fondness for pigs but professionally I've only treated two and one of those died," Dr Caspar said.

Along with his Australian wife Georgie (an animal behaviourist) he went from a 'small apartment in central London' to a hilly 170 acre property in the central tablelands of New South Wales.

"I think it was quality of life that brought us to Australia," he said.

"We weren't enjoying London for what it was and I think we needed more sunshine."

The free range trend has been a big factor for farming across the board in recent years as people start to get more aware of the welfare of the animals they're eating.

According to Dr Caspar much of the pig farming in Australia is done intensively in sheds where exercise is restricted.

"Our pigs take six months to get to maturity but if you keep them in a shed and prevent them from moving around they'll get to slaughter weight in 15 weeks," he said.

"I think this style of farming has been to the loss in quality of the meat and the welfare of the pigs."

He says much of our imported pig meat from Denmark and Canada is also intensively farmed.

However there are downsides to free range pig farming - because the pigs are outside from birth to death they're walking up and down hilly paddocks and burning off the very fat that improves pork's taste.

This means the animals grow half as quickly as shed-raised pigs and require more food and water.

They need sufficient shade during summer and areas to lather themselves in a protective cover of mud.

They're also inquisitive animals with a powerful snout and can sometimes be a bit destructive.

"At the same time we don't have the fighting problems some other pig farmers have because they're out in space with bugs and mud to play around with," Dr Caspar said.

"That results in a different quality in the meat.

"People will often first buy it on welfare grounds or for environmental reasons."

He says in a time where population and food demand are increasing, Australians should be eating a bit less, but better quality pork.

"We're not trying to solve the world's food shortage issues by providing animal meat.

"If it's protein you want I think soy is a better option but we're more concerned with the quality of the pork, its traceability and the welfare of the animals."

Every pork producer you speak to says pigs are intelligent, and Dr Caspar says it's their ability to learn quickly.

"Generally they're a pleasure to work with.

"I weigh them once a week and it takes about 45 minutes to weigh 75 pigs - we put them through a race and it's like clockwork.

"They're very easy to breed but they do require a bit of care," he said.

Listen to Justin Huntsdale chatting with James Caspar using the headphones link (left).

James Caspar's farm is part of the Mudgee Farm Walks series. For more information contact the Mudgee Visitor Information Centre on 6372 1020.